The story of Jones’ career begins after completing his studies at Saint Martin’s School of Art in London in the early 80s, an era characterized by unemployment and the rebellious spirit of punk and the New Romantics. It was in this atmosphere that Jones, a young college graduate, took his first steps as a hat designer. Jones quickly became a major figure in London’s nightlife, frequenting the Covent Garden nightclub The Blitz! where he met then-little-known musicians such as Boy George and Spandau Ballet, who were among his first customers.

However, Jones made the leap into the international limelight when Bloomingdale’s, the most important fashion department store at the time, took notice of him. A short time later, Jones, sponsored by CondéNast stylist Anna Harvey, found himself in British Vogue, which celebrated him as a rising star of fashion and provided him with a customer who would go on to influence his designs: Princess Diana. He became the darling of society, making creative statement headpieces for Steve Strange (singer of the 80s band “Visage”) as well as highly elegant creations for the Princess of Wales. In 1984, he also became a household name in Parisian fashion circles and attracted the interest of designers such as Jean Paul Gaultier and Thierry Mugler a dream constellation that enabled him to work with the biggest names in the industry. Against this backdrop, the Palais Galliera celebrates Jones’ close connection with Paris and highlights his collaboration with designers such as Jean Paul Gaultier, Claude Montana, Thierry Mugler, Vivienne Westwood, John Galliano, Comme des Garçons, Alaïa, Schiaparelli, Louis Vuitton and Christian Dior. Since the late 1990s, Jones has worked continuously for Christian Dior, which is the last French Maison to operate its own hat atelier—an exceptional rarity and a testament to the appreciation of traditional craftsmanship. The exhibition is not only a tribute to Jones’ creative achievements, but also to the historical significance of hat fashion. The 400 or so pieces on display showcase his personal work—many with very personal inspirations linked to classic elements of millinery.

Not only can visitors admire Jones’ works, but also his studio, tools and a short film that provides an insight into the designer’s creative process. The exhibition illustrates the bridge that Jones builds between past and present: his hats not only bear the fashion signature of their time, but also reflect his deep connection to the craftsmanship and tradition of the millinery profession.

Stephen Jones is by no means the only contemporary milliner who works with a sense of history and style, but he is certainly one of the most influential. In Paris, he impressively demonstrates how he combines his personal history, the history of fashion and his inexhaustible creativity. A world opens up to the observer in which hats are not just a fashion accessory, but an expression of art and personality.