Italian Tailoring Blends
Heritage and Sartorial Elegance

(Way of Living) To understand Italian tailoring, one must first understand its history. Men’s couture in Italy is the result of a centuries-long evolution, shaped by regional traditions, postwar innovation, and a national ethos that privileges art, craftsmanship, and an emphasis on style versus refinement. While cities like Milan and Florence have played crucial roles in defining Italian style, it is Naples, Rome, and to some extent Bologna that have provided the spiritual homes of Italian tailoring. Each has its own tailoring school and its own approach to cut and construction, but all share one thing: a rejection of the strict rules that seemed to dominate much of the 19th and early 20th Century.

In the aftermath of World War II, Italian tailors began to carve out a distinctive identity, separate from the dominant British influence that was seen as the embodiment of civility. The economic boom of the 1950s coincided with the golden age of Italian cinema, and actors like Marcello Mastroianni, Vittorio Gassman, and even the young Marlon Brando, clad in Neapolitan jackets and Roman-cut suits, helped broadcast a new kind of sartorial code to the world. Italian menswear became naturalistic and unforced. Meanwhile, institutions like Brioni were reinventing formalwear, introducing lightweight constructions and razor-sharp lines that upended the idea that tailoring needed to be heavy or reserved.

What defines Italian tailoring today is respecting tradition, but with a slight sense of ease to the overall finished product. At its core is a softer structure: jackets often feature minimal padding in the shoulders, lighter canvassing, and less internal construction. This gives the garment a natural drape, which conforms to the wearer’s body rather than imposing shape upon it. The Neapolitan jacket is perhaps the clearest example: its spalla camicia shoulder mimics the sleeve attachment of a shirt, creating a relaxed and comfortable fit. The sleeve is often set with a slight puff, the lapels are wider and curved, and the quarters are open—all contributing to a look that feels less studied than British or American suits, but nonetheless refined.

Color and fabric are also part of the overall effect. Broadly speaking, British suits tend to reflect the climate they come from and are darker, heavier, and more subdued. Italian tailoring, by contrast, feels lighter in every sense. With an emphasis on breathable fabrics like linen, cotton, and fresco wool, Italian suits are built for movement and ease, offering a more forgiving silhouette compared to the structured tweeds and dense worsteds favored in English tailoring.

These differences are preserved and celebrated in the ateliers that still dot the Italian landscape. From Naples to Florence, Rome to Milan, family-run houses continue to champion their regional identities—think jackets that move with the wearer, with silhouettes shaped by hand, not machine. Whether it’s the fluid lines of Neapolitan tailoring at Sartoria Solito or the elegance of Liverano & Liverano in Florence, these ateliers are keeping heritage alive with each handstitched seam.

There’s something quietly compelling about Italy’s sartorie. Every detail feels intentional, every silhouette considered, striking the right balance between traditional and contemporary style. Italian tailoring manages to feel relaxed without ever looking careless. It’s the difference between putting on a suit and being at ease in one. From the soft shoulder to the barchetta-style chest pocket, each choice adds a touch of charm and a quiet elegance—even if you’re not strolling through a piazza with a gelato in hand. In the end, an Italian suit isn’t just about style; it reflects a way of living.