Chefs Know Best—

Borja Marrero’s Gran Canaria

Culinary and Pleasure

When it comes to experiencing a city through its food, local chefs know best. That’s why we regularly tap the address books of some of the world’s most renowned chefs to guide you expertly through the culinary scene of their city.

Borja Marrero

Gran Canarian-born Borja Marrero trained at Barcelona’s Hofmann School and honed his skills in the prestigious kitchens of Ferrán Adrià, Juan Mari Arzak, and Ramón Freixa. After a professional adventure in Mexico, he returned to Tejeda, where he created Texeda—a zero-kilometer gastronomy project on his family farm. At MuXgo in Las Palmas, he highlights the flavors and cultural heritage of the Canary Islands, using previously overlooked native ingredients and produce from his own land. MuXgo is the first restaurant in the Canary Islands to earn both a Red and a Green Michelin Star.

Maison Ë Where would you send guests to experience traditional Canarian cuisine?

Borja Marrero One place that is very good for traditional food like from a Canarian mother’s kitchen is the Bochinche La Lechuza in Vega de San Mateo. I’d order Carne de cochino frito—fried pork with potatoes. Another restaurant, where you can find a great Carne de cabra en salsa, is El Labrador in Tejeda. One of my personal favorites for a tasting menu is the one-star restaurant, La Aquarela, in Arquinequin.

M.Ë Since you breed your own livestock, your quality standards regarding meat are likely high. Do you have a recommendation for meat lovers?

  • Traditional Canarian CuisineBochinche La Lechuza (Vega de San Mateo)
    El Labrador (Tejeda)
  • Tasting MenuLa Aquarela (Arquinequin)
  • Local Grilled BeefEl Churrasco (Las Palmas)
  • Wineries to visitBodega Bentayga
    Bodega Bandama

B.M. One of the best restaurants in Gran Canaria that uses local beef is El Churrasco in Las Palmas. It’s a big restaurant, but the service is very good. They offer great grilled meat dishes and very good salads as well.

M.Ë Is there a typical Canarian experience one should not miss out on?

B.M. In my opinion, the best recommendation is to enjoy the island’s nature. Gran Canaria is so much more than sunny beaches. Why not spend a day in a rural house and connect with the culture of our small country? Make sure you visit the mountain (Pico de las Nieves) in the center of the island. The view and energy there are unique in the Canary Islands. Start your explorations there—visit the local wineries, cheese farms and the real Canarian people in the towns who are still connected to the land.

M.Ë What wineries are on top of your list?

B.M. The winery in my town is called Bodega Bentayga. It’s in the middle of the Sacred Mountains, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Their vineyards are some of the highest ones in Spain and the owners of the winery have dug part of their facilities in natural stone. They produce very good white, red, and sweet wines. Another winery that’s great for a visit is Bodega Bandama, which is not far from Las Palmas. The bodega and winery are situated at the edge of the Bandama volcanic crater.

M.Ë Where can you find the best local cheese?

B.M. Of course, there’s Queso de Tejeda, which we produce on my farm—I’m always happy to arrange a visit and a tasting. Another cheese maker I’d recommend is El Cortijo de Caideros in the municipality of Gáldar. They produce semi-cured and cured cheese from the raw milk of their own Canary Island sheep. As they practice transhumance—moving with their sheep to different pastures in different months—their production is limited to a specific time of year.

WORDS
Sarah Satt
Photography
MuXgo
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