Rugged Beauty and Refined Hospitality in
New Zealand’s Deep South

On the final descent into Queenstown, the snow-dusted summits of the Southern Alps stretch out in every direction, their jagged peaks couched in the soft glow of the early morning light. Forming the South Island’s jagged spine, these mighty pinnacles were forged over millions of years by the slow, relentless collision of the Pacific and Australian tectonic plates. For the indigenous Māori, the range’s highest peak, Aoraki/Mt Cook, rising a dramatic 3,700 meters above sea level, embodies a god who became trapped in the sky, turning to stone as his brothers fell into the sea.

The myth-shrouded landscapes unfolding around the monumental mountains are a study in heightened contrasts, forming vivid microclimates that range from the glacier-sculpted West Coast to the sun-bleached plains of Central Otago. Each environment sets a sumptuous scene for the country’s finest hospitality offerings, from high-octane thrills to awarded fine dining, tucked into hidden mountain valleys, lakeside retreats and high-country plains.

(Lodge)The dramatic descent into Queenstown is ranked among the world’s most breathtaking landings, while the compact city beyond the runway is celebrated for its blend of adrenaline-fueled adventure in an awe-inspiring setting. But beyond its well-worn drawcards, the true treasures wait to be discovered. Forty minutes out of town, Blanket Bay is an opulent retreat carved into the silent hills above Lake Wakatipu’s northern reaches. The lodge takes its name from an episode in 1861 when Māori shearers, caught without shelter, fashioned makeshift quarters from blankets to protect themselves and their freshly shorn wool. Their ingenuity endures in spirit, though today’s comforts are of another world. In the generously proportioned, character-filled suites, roaring fireplaces, freestanding tubs, and private balconies create a sense of cocooning. Stone sourced from a nearby quarry anchors the architecture, while timber from old railway bridges forms the floor and the vaulted beams of the lodge’s Great Room. Here, guests take in uninterrupted views of the lake and the Humboldt mountains, with not a single human-made structure to break the spell. “It’s as if you’ve been dropped into a wilderness escape,” says General Manager Tom Butler, “only with five-star comforts.”

Numerous comforts keep those content who linger in this rarefied bubble blissfully unoccupied. Should the call of adventure prove irresistible, the concierge team orchestrates anything from the serene to the pulse-quickening. Horse-riding treks set off from Blanket Bay’s own stables to wind through Wyuna High Country Station, while guided hikes trace craggy trails into Mount Aspiring National Park. Jet boats hurtle through the Dart River’s frothy rapids, and for those who prefer their thrills airborne, helicopters lift off for nearby Milford Sound, its ink-black fjord and Mitre Peak unfurling beneath them. “Guests tell us it’s among the most dramatic flights they’ve ever taken,” Butler recounts. Evenings unfold with a rotating menu of Pacific Rim-inspired dishes – light, fresh, and inconspicuously exquisite – paired with New Zealand wines, craft beers, and spirits. In summer, the best seat in the house is beneath the open sky, where the sun bows behind the Humboldts and the Milky Way takes center stage, unpolluted and unbelievably vivid. “Blanket Bay isn’t just a place to stay,” Butler muses, “it’s something to experience.”

(Wine)  Beyond creating spectacular landscapes, Central Otago’s extreme climate produces some of New Zealand’s most distinctive wines. Vines first took root here in the 1860s, during the Gold Rush that shaped the region’s quaint townships. Today, over one hundred vineyards and wineries dot the terrain, known for vintages characterized by “fragrant, lush fruit underpinned by taut structure.” Pinot Noir reigns supreme – cult bottles include Sato’s 2019 “Northburn” – but the region’s tightly structured Chardonnays, bone-dry aromatics, and complex Méthode Traditionelle are also worth seeking out. Among the standouts are Carrick Winery and Mt Difficulty in Bannockburn, and biodynamic Rippon, perched on the shores of Lake Wānaka. For a deeper dive, pair the wine with a meal that tells the story of the land. Amisfield, just outside Queenstown, offers a hyperlocal, forager-driven degustation by Executive Chef Vaughan Mabee, an expert in distilling a place into flavor. A lunch tasting menu reads deceptively simply, “sea snacks, daikon, truffle brioche, blue cod, whitebait, red deer, crayfish, rhubarb tart, kawakawa.” The final note, a native leaf prized by Māori for its medicinal qualities, embodies Amisfield’s philosophy: letting the land speak for itself.

(Dine) In nearby Arrowtown, dining destination Ayrburn delivers an all-day gastronomic affair, from an oven-fresh croissant and a faultless flat white at the Bakehouse to an evening of firelit indulgence. At The Woolshed, Head Chef Josh Harris crafts bistro-style dishes that honor his Māori heritage, spotlighting indigenous herbs, seafood, and seasonal produce–stone fruits in summer, root vegetables in winter. For après-ski, the Burr Bar’s open-air fire pit is the place to be, with a menu of perfectly appointed small plates—think anchovy and guindilla Gildas, lamb and pork meatballs with curls of Grana Padano. The ultimate indulgence? A wine flight and tapas in the cheekily named Manure Room, where oysters are served with house-made rosé jelly, or a lingering dinner at the Barrel Room, its walls lined with 56 oak barrels. Candlelit, discreet, and underscored by the murmur of a grand piano, it’s a place to stretch out time, if only for an evening.

(Whisky) Your Ayrburn cocktail likely has local pedigree: distilled just over the ridge at Cardrona, where a desert-like microclimate at 520 meters above sea level shapes some of the world’s most collectible drams. This award-winning distillery takes a grain-to-glass approach, using pure alpine water, locally grown malted barley, and custom copper stills to craft its single malt whisky, gin, vodka, and limited-edition liqueurs. “Our whisky is built in fine layers, like an oil painting,” says Distillery Founder and Managing Director, Desiree Reid. “Every quirk and nuance of the distillery process builds together to form its identifiable character.” At the cellar door, the three-hour “Family Reserve Tour” offers a deep dive into the craft, best finished with a dinner pairing seasonal small plates with single malts and cocktails. Don’t depart without securing a limited edition bottle of Hiahia, a rare whisky aged in a former Otago Pinot Noir Burgundy barrel.

(Resort) Set deep in 49,000 hectares of rugged conservation land, the sculptural form of The Lindis blends seamlessly into the high-country landscape of Ben Avon Station. Neighboring a working merino and Angus farm, the lodge’s Spotted Gum paneling and Bluestone masonry echo the terrain, while its suites equipped with super king beds, private fireplaces, floor-to-ceiling windows offer a front-row seat to the untouched valley. The in-house restaurant follows suit, sourcing locally and harvesting from its own garden. Leaving isn’t high on the agenda here. Bespoke experiences take full advantage of the setting, from horseback rides to an off the grid, four-course barbecue kicked off with Champagne on the porch of a private dining space, the “Black Diamond”, in a hidden valley nook. In winter, the ebony sky, one of the world’s darkest, becomes the main event, with private stargazing sessions illuminating Māori and Greek constellations and celestial navigation techniques followed by the first Polynesian explorers to reach the country’s shores.

(Air) If you’re willing to tear yourself away from The Lindis, even if it’s just for a few hours, the West Coast’s glacier country offers a scenic shift from the untamed high country to sleek, ice-clad peaks. The journey mirrors the path of Tu Ahuriri, the chief of the Ngāi Tahu iwi (tribe) who once traversed these valleys to collect the region’s prized pounamu (greenstone). Around twenty kilometers apart from each other, the immense Fox and Franz Josef glaciers tumble down from the Southern Alps, almost touching the sea. At thirteen kilometers long, the Fox glacier, one of the very few in the world located so close to both ocean and rainforest, plunges 2,600 meters into a dramatic ice landscape. Its speed of flow, up to three meters a day, makes for fascinating, ever-changing formations.

Chartering a helicopter flight and snow landing with Glacier Helicopters or its sister company The Helicopter Line are the best way to capture the grandeur of these glaciers. Safety is paramount, with each flight meticulously guided by highly certified pilots. Acutely attune to swift shifts in weather, they monitor conditions constantly and adjust routes and experiences “depending on the angle of the sun, cloud levels and the current weather conditions,” as West Coast Team Leader Hannah Ben-Shimol explains. The top priority, after safety, is to give guests a true sense of the scale and beauty of this otherworldly terrain. To transmit its “feeling of power and depth”, as she puts it, nothing comes close to the view from above.

(Lodge) Heading further up the moody West Coast and through Arthur’s Pass, the highest passage over the Southern Alps and historically a Māori hunting route, mountainous terrain eventually gives way to the sweeping Canterbury Plains. Slung high on a ridge of a 36,000-acre sheep station, Flockhill Homestead is surrounded by the raw beauty of the Southern Alps. The Dalai Lama is said to have called this magnetic setting the ‘spiritual center of the universe”. Designed by leading Australasian architecture practice Warren and Mahoney, the lodge references a minimalist barn in its vernacular. Layered cast concrete walls subtly nod to the protruding limestone formations that dot the land, once used as shelter by Ngāi Tahu on their journeys. Their resemblance to sheep from afar is what gave Flockhill Station its name.

Featuring four bedrooms and a primely positioned pool, the lodge offers exclusive stays, complete with a private chef and attendant. Inside, a restrained aesthetic allows awe-inspiring views of Lake Pearson and Sugarloaf Mountain to take center stage, while natural touches like hand-blown glass lamps and soft textured furnishings balance out the raw concrete. Recently, a handful of private villas opened on the property, alongside the Sugarloaf restaurant, which sources produce directly from the land, where Flockhill’s gardener, Sally, cultivates a bounty of fruits, vegetables, and herbs. “Flockhill is a playground of adventure, like having your own national park,” says General Manager Andrew Cullen. Guests can explore the land through tours, rock climbing, horse trekking with Flockhill’s horse whisperer, Heather, or even join local farmers in their daily sheep mustering.

Cullen sets the scene, “An exhilarating cleanse in Lake Pearson, a trek through our limestone outcrops, a picnic on a mountain summit with the sun on your back, connecting with the earth barefoot on a grassy knoll, or listening to babbling brooks or native birdsong.” It’s the warm, unfussy hospitality, for which New Zealand is known that leaves the longest lasting impression, however. “A stay at Flockhill has relaxed first-name service with a professional approach,” Cullen says. “Our team does an incredible job of hosting guests and showing them the true lifestyle of living in this area—with a luxury twist, of course. It’s not uncommon for guests to call the team by name and leave feeling like they’ve made true connections with locals.”