Vienna’s Holiday Charm —
From Boutiques to Tables and Cozy Retreats

(Vienna) Once the capital of half of Europe, Vienna still carries itself with imperial posture, and a knowing smile. People dress for the opera, cakes have family trees, and the average coffee break can last an entire afternoon. I love that it feels gloriously old-fashioned—even though, as a trends editor, I’m supposed to keep my eyes on the future. The grand hotels—both new and old—are palatial enough to make you question your posture, the cafés double as debating clubs, and there’s more culture on a Tuesday night than most capitals muster in a month. Between the concerts, the theaters, and the museums, it’s almost impossible to do Vienna in 48 hours—but if you find yourself at a loss, there’s always shopping.

This time of year, the city feels like it’s been gift-wrapped: Christkindlmärkte emerge, shop windows glitter, the air is faintly scented with roasted chestnuts and Punsch—and even the most stoic locals are caught discussing ribbons and gifts. I adore wandering the narrow streets of the old town, where craftsmen still shape leather, chocolate, wood, and perfume—century-old workshops standing side by side with young artisans mastering their art. I’ve always preferred craftsmanship over logos, and Vienna offers an abundance of both heritage and innovation.

Most rankings call it the world’s most livable city, yet no one here seems particularly impressed. Vienna’s greatest charm is that it doesn’t try to be charming. Beneath all the marble and Gemütlichkeit, a cosmopolitan pulse is building—curious, international, and quietly confident. You can taste it in the city’s kitchens where chefs are reinventing tradition, and see it in ateliers and boutiques bubbling with creativity. So no, my hometown isn’t stuck in the past. It’s simply enjoying the delicious coffee.

Cucina Itameshi
The Austrians never really got over losing Venice to the Kingdom of Italy in 1866. So they built their own version—gondolas, palazzi, the whole shimmering dream. Some 130 years later, the so-called “Dogenhof”—once the hotel where that fantasy was indulged—is all that remains of the city’s great Venetian funpark at the Prater. Today, a new idea flickers inside its late Italian Gothic–style walls. The “Mochi” restaurant group has turned the premises into “Cucina Itameshi”—their take on Italo-Japanese dining. Think Udon Vongole or Beef Carpaccio with wasabi, or ’Nduja meeting Nori over open fire. It’s like a fever dream—but a good one—especially when you find yourself drinking Sake Spritz in this special location on Vienna’s grand boulevard, the Praterstraße.

TIAN
I’m not a vegetarian, but this restaurant proves that green can be grand. Chef Paul Ivić treats every leaf, root, and blossom as part of a larger conversation. “Every ingredient carries the work and patience of someone who grew it. Our farmers study the perfect soil, wait for the right moment to harvest, and fight to keep forgotten plant species alive. My job is to honor that,” says Ivić. Attracting countless awards since its opening in 2011—including a Michelin star, a Green Star for sustainability, and four toques by Gault & Millau—TIAN stands among Europe’s most visionary vegetarian and vegan restaurants.

Doubek
At Doubek, dining feels like returning to the essence of food—where everything revolves around fire. Chef Stefan Doubek and his team cook exclusively over open flames—no gas, no induction, no shortcuts. The restaurant’s hub is the Fire Kitchen with its 35-metre-long chimney where fish, meat, and vegetables are grilled, smoked, and roasted with surgical precision. The atmosphere is dark, focused, and meditative—all eyes are on the flames. With two Michelin stars, four Gault & Millau toques, and two knives from The Best Chef Awards, Doubek has turned elemental cooking into one of Vienna’s most compelling dining experiences.

Mandarin Oriental 
It’s the new kid on the block—Vienna’s freshest five-star hotel opened at the end of October in a former courthouse dating from 1903. After two decades of inactivity, the building has been transformed into a luxury destination. The spa and pool are already attracting attention for their elegance, complementing the Jugendstil façade. Penthouse residences above the hotel are also available for purchase, offering expansive views of the city, including St. Stephen’s Cathedral.

Rosewood 
This hotel has one of the city’s most enchanting rooftops—a hidden garden where you can almost brush the cupola of St. Peter’s Church with your fingertips. When the Christmas lights begin to glitter and the festive spirit tips into frenzy, this secret oasis offers something rare in Vienna: a moment of stillness—best enjoyed with a Orangenpunsch and a slice of Gugelhupf.

Palais Almanac 
Vienna is home to many grand hotels, but few feel as contemporary as the Almanac. Housed across two restored 19th-century Gründerzeit palaces on the Ringstrasse, it combines historic architecture with a modern sensibility. The gym offers a diverse range of activities—from disco workouts to Gua Sha and face yoga sessions, all open to non-hotel guests. For those looking for a retreat from imperial grandeur, this offers a refreshing alternative.

Schwab & Patzl
What is good taste? In my view, Michael Schwab und Stefan Patzl offer a compelling answer. Their small art and antiques gallery condenses centuries of beauty into a single, perfectly composed space. Every time I pass by the display window, my heart skips a beat. Jewelry, porcelain, glass, silver, and furniture from around the world are brought into harmony—each piece feels alive, as if it has been waiting all this time for precisely this spotlight.

SAGAN Vienna
For anyone fed up with the “It-Bag” circus and ready to turn their back on the craze—there is no need to travel to Scandinavia. SAGAN Vienna, founded by Tanja Bradaric and Taro Ohmae, crafts minimalist leather bags with precision and attitude: all handmade, all refinement, all understatement.

R. Horns Wien
There aren’t many elegant ways to make it through airport security, but R. Horns Wien manages to effortlessly simplify matters. For more than 40 years, the company has been offering bespoke leather goods to discerning customers—including the leather-trimmed Travel Bag selection, perfect for a weekend away.

MÜHLBAUER HUTMANUFAKTUR
Fancy a hat? Founded in 1903 and still family-run, Mühlbauer Hutmanufaktur has turned hat-making into contemporary fashion that is recognized worldwide. Under Klaus Mühlbauer—the fourth generation to lead the Maison—tradition meets fearless design. In their Schwedenplatz workshop, felt, straw, and fabric are sculpted by hand—but always with a twist. Classic shapes are reimagined in unexpected proportions, textures, or materials. If creativity strikes, you can also order a custom-made piece.

INDIE
In 1970, Pravin Cherkoori asked Austrian architect Carl Auböck to design his clothing store “India”—what emerged was a boutique with dark walls which made the vibrant colors of the stocked silks glow. Today, son Hari and French designer Praline Le Moult have revived the boutique as INDIE: a concept store featuring not only their own label, but also velvet blazers, handwoven carpets, cotton pajamas, décor, and jewelry from around the world—all curated with an impeccable eye. When I need a dose of bohemian energy, this is where I go—to a small corner of the city that feels effortlessly cosmopolitan.

Altmann & Kühne
A delectable slice of Vienna: Founded in 1928, Altmann & Kühne is still famous for its handmade Miniaturkonfekt—some of the tiniest, most exquisite chocolates in the world. Each sweet is meticulously crafted by hand in a nearby workshop, and each box gleams like a treasure chest. The boutique itself is an architectural gem, designed by Wiener Werkstätte legend Josef Hoffmann. Bonus: these chocolates make the perfect travel gift—they’re feather-light and the box doubles beautifully as a jewelry case.