Lionel Favre—Continuing
To Write History

Maison Ë Mr. Favre, the Reverso is an icon of design. What makes the style of this watch timeless for you, and how do you preserve this aesthetic in newer models?

Lionel Favre The Reverso endures as a timeless icon precisely because it was born from a purposeful idea, expressed through an elegant and functional design. Over time, these lines, geometric form, and swiveling case transcended the initial function of protecting the dial during polo matches, becoming architectural in nature, and ultimately a symbol of harmony and refinement. What ensures its longevity, in my view, is this unique alliance of purity and character. The rectangular case is built upon the golden ratio, naturally lending it a sense of balance. Design elements such as the gadroons at 12 and 6 o’clock, the baton hour markers, and the dial’s symmetrical composition all contribute to a coherent and elegant aesthetic. Even after more than ninety years, the Reverso remains instantly recognizable.

To me, the Reverso is far more than a timepiece; it is capable of bearing enamel miniatures, engravings, or gemstones—and, in doing so, it becomes a reflection of its owner’s story. This deeply personal dimension is what gives the Reverso its remarkable emotional resonance. Even after more than ninety years, it remains a symbol of innovation, style, and craftsmanship. Our mission is to ensure that the Reverso continues to speak to each new generation, while always preserving the soul and identity that made it iconic from the very beginning.

M.Ë With its strong Art Deco identity, the Reverso stands apart. What is your creative strategy for keeping it both authentic and current?

L.F. The Reverso’s timelessness lies in its ability to evolve while remaining true to its origins: born from sport, refined by design, and perfected by craftsmanship. Its rectangular shape inspired by the golden ratio, characteristic gadroons, symmetrical proportions, and Art Deco elegance create a spirit that connects the 1930s to today. This duality of being both elegant and sporty captures a spirit that transcends trends. Maintaining this aesthetic continuity is, of course, a delicate endeavor. It requires a deep respect for the original spirit, while still allowing for thoughtful evolution. The Art Deco codes, the clarity, structure, geometry, and legibility, form a distinct design language that continues to guide our creative process. Far from being constraints, they offer a framework within which we can innovate. Designing within the legacy of the Reverso carries a certain responsibility. Yet its history is one of adaptation: evolving case proportions, improved ergonomics, technical complications, and more feminine interpretations. Through collections such as the Classic, Tribute, and One, we have introduced diverse expressions—each with its own personality, yet all unmistakably true to the Reverso.

To preserve this, we carefully develop new models that honor the structured, geometric style and the signature reversible case, ensuring every reinterpretation respects the watch’s essence while crossing into modern eras and tastes. It is a great responsibility to work on the brand’s icon, but in every era, designers have been creative; every decade the Reverso has been redesigned, reinterpreted. Our responsibility is to make the Reverso cross our era, and the designers of future generations will hopefully continue to write its history.

M.Ë The Reverso is known for its innovative reversible case. What creative challenges does this design bring?

L.F. The reversible case, originally invented to protect the fragile plexiglass dial during polo matches, remains the collection’s signature and a defining technical challenge. The reversible case is both a gift and a challenge. From a creative standpoint, the complexity comes from the fact that we are not designing a traditional watch—we are designing two faces, and those two sides must work in harmony, both mechanically and aesthetically.

In models like the Reverso Duoface or Duetto, each side often displays a different complication, a different time zone, or even a completely different artistic expression. The technical challenge lies in integrating all of this into a single movement, within the constraints of a rectangular, slim case that must still perform the swivel motion flawlessly.

At the same time, the Reverso gives us something quite rare in watchmaking: a second canvas. From an artistic perspective, this is incredibly liberating. The solid caseback can become a space for engraving, enamel, miniature painting—it’s a platform for Métiers Rares, for storytelling. We are able to push creativity much further than in a conventional design, while still respecting the watch’s codes and proportions. So, while the architecture of the Reverso imposes certain limits, those very constraints are what push us to be more inventive—to find elegance in precision and expression in structure.

M.Ë In a world that is constantly changing, the Reverso remains a symbol of stability. How does this constant evolution influence your creative work?

L.F. It is a great responsibility to work on the brand’s icon, but in every era designers have been creative; every decade the Reverso has been redesigned, reinterpreted. In our archives, we have more than a hundred different Reverso dials, from the ’30s to the present day. The case has also been redesigned several times. Each design corresponds well to its time.
We believe that the Reverso is a collection that has enormous potential and for which we have great plans. This watch combines an exceptional history with an equally exceptional turning function. We have projects in the works that range from dial animation, over very large complications to rare craftsmanship. Both faces are unique and always very inspiring.
We live in a world that moves very fast—in terms of technology, aesthetics, and expectations. In that context, the Reverso represents something rare: a fixed point, a design with such clarity and identity that it transcends time. But that doesn’t mean we stand still. On the contrary, it’s this contrast—between a stable icon and a shifting world—that makes our creative work so dynamic. The outside world inspires us—in color, in materials, in the way people connect emotionally with objects—but we always return to the essence of the Reverso: proportion, function, and poetry in mechanics. That balance keeps us grounded while allowing space for bold ideas, whether through artistic collaborations, new complications, or reinterpretations of classic models.

M.Ë Personalization and individual customization are in demand but how do you open the door for personal expression within such a classic design?
I think its design is very strong. It is timeless. This concept of a watch that can flip to reveal another dial, a function, or a personalized engraving has helped a lot to make the Reverso famous.

L.F. We sometimes make limited series for a specific boutique or for a market. We also work on bespoke, special requests, personalization, or unique pieces for our customers. The Reverso is not just a timepiece; it is a personal statement, a canvas for the individual’s journey and experiences. Its ability to seamlessly blend a distinctive identity with the capacity for personalization sets it apart. Over the decades, the Reverso has embraced change without compromising its essence. Hosting over 50 different calibers and evolving into a canvas for creative expression, adorned with enamel, engravings, and gemstones, it remains a dynamic and relevant icon.

M.Ë As design trends shift in the world of luxury watchmaking, how does Jaeger-LeCoultre plan to infuse the timeless Reverso with the spirit of what’s to come

L.F. We are clearly witnessing a return to more compact watch sizes. There is a growing appreciation for smaller diameters and slimmer profiles, which reflect a desire for elegance and restraint. At the same time, there’s a noticeable shift away from casual, oversized sports watches, and a revival of more formal, refined timepieces. For us at Jaeger-LeCoultre, this trend is very much in line with the identity of the Reverso. Its origins are rooted in classic proportions and architectural harmony, and its rectangular form was never about dominating the wrist, but rather about enhancing it with subtlety and sophistication. We are continuing to explore this by refining our case sizes and working with thinner movements, without compromising on mechanical complexity or aesthetics. The Reverso lends itself beautifully to this evolution; it remains timeless, but always adaptable. This return to formality is also encouraging us to deepen our work with the Métiers Rares, offering more options for personalization and artistic expression, which resonate strongly with today’s collectors seeking uniqueness and craftsmanship.
Ultimately, we don’t chase trends—we interpret them through the lens of our heritage, allowing the Reverso to evolve gracefully while staying true to its essence.

M.Ë Could you give us an insight into the creative process—from the initial idea to the finished product?

L.F. At Jaeger-LeCoultre, the creative process begins with close collaboration between design, marketing, and creative teams. From initial sketches, we progress to digital renderings and 3D prototypes, refining each element before producing the first physical models. This phase can extend over a year, depending on the complexity.

Uncompromising attention to detail is essential. A watch is a delicate balance of interdependent elements—every component, however subtle, contributes to its identity. We prototype each part—case, dial, bracelet—to ensure alignment with our original vision.

The Reverso, with its unique reversible case and dual faces, requires close collaboration with engineers and movement developers from the earliest stages. For the Duoface and Duetto models, two distinct yet harmonious identities must be created, both mechanically and aesthetically resolved. Our designers work hand-in-hand with the artisans of the Manufacture, particularly those practicing Métiers Rares—enameling, engraving, guilloche, and gem-setting. These crafts are not decorative additions; they are integral to our storytelling.
While every project begins with hand-sketching, we integrate advanced technologies like 3D modeling and printing to test our designs with precision. Our integrated Manufacture allows us to develop every component in-house, facilitating a seamless blend of design and technical development. The Reverso is deeply rooted in Art Deco codes. Signature details such as the gadroons remain, although we reinterpret them when needed—for example, to accommodate complications like a tourbillon. The Tribute line reflects this balance of heritage and modernity with contemporary proportions and materials.

Designing a Reverso is both a privilege and a responsibility. We don’t start from a blank page, but from a legacy that dates back to 1931. Each timepiece reflects a balance of technical mastery and artistic intuition. In the end, we are not merely creating watches—we are carrying forward a living legacy.

M.Ë Finally, what does the Reverso mean to you personally, and how does it reflect your approach to design?

L.F. I have always held a deep admiration for Jaeger-LeCoultre. As a Frenchman, I have long been aware of the Maison’s strong resonance in France, where its legacy is both respected and celebrated. I still recall vividly the first time I held a Reverso in my hands. I was immediately captivated by the purity of its geometry, the precision of its lines, and the way light danced across the case. That distinctive “click” when it locks, combined with the comfort on the wrist, is simply perfect.

Its design is incredibly strong and timeless. The concept of a watch that can reveal another face—whether for a second time zone, a complication, or a personal engraving—has greatly contributed to making the Reverso iconic. It reflects my approach to design in many ways: I believe in the power of form with function, in emotional resonance through details, and in the kind of enduring elegance that continues to fascinate across generations. It also speaks to the emotional side of design. Because of its dual faces, the Reverso becomes personal.

These invite a personal connection—allowing the wearer to choose what is revealed and what remains discreet. That interplay between public and private, between technical ingenuity and artistic expression, is where its poetic power lies. Designing for the Reverso is, in many ways, a lesson in what great design should embody: innovation grounded in purpose, timelessness shaped by restraint, and emotion conveyed through craft.