Ancient Japanese Beauty

Fashion and Beauty, Branded
Sensai beauty editorial portrait
beauty face close up of Sensai model

“大事の前の小事”—in Japanese “Daiji no mae no shōji” means, “If you want great things, you must first do small things,” and there couldn’t be a more fitting proverb for the patience and perseverance of Japanese women. Especially when it comes to beauty.

Sensai: Reviving Ancient Japanese Beauty Routines for Modern Elegance

(Branded Story) Japanese women perform up to fourteen steps a day in front of the mirror to achieve clear, radiant skin. Not only do they cleanse and care for themselves extensively, they also pamper different areas of the face with the products and massages chosen for this purpose. Another trend, you may be thinking, but it’s, in fact, traditional Japanese knowledge that has conquered the whole world by now.

 

Better safe than sorry—especially when it comes to skincare

One of the greatest beauty rituals was born out of an ancient tradition centered around the general theme of purity: double cleansing, which is firmly anchored in the culture. In every traditional onsen bath (their origins date back to the 7th century), the body must first be thoroughly cleansed. Only after the entire body has been sufficiently scrubbed, cleaned and washed are onsen visitors allowed to enter the hot water to bathe and relax.

Speaking of relaxation: that’s also part of the daily beauty routine of Japanese women (morning and evening, mind you). The products are gently tapped in, spread across and sprayed on. The process is similar to a devout tea ceremony. Each step is predetermined and carried out mindfully.

Japan’s most famous beauty brand, Sensai, has perfected double cleansing with its proprietary method and successfully introduced the principle in Europe decades ago. Inspired by the famous green tea ceremony, Sensai named its skincare philosophy Saho, which means “ritual” or “method” and describes a skincare protocol that is carried out in the same way every single day.

 

A ritual for the senses

With the Saho method—in addition to tried and true double cleansing—double moisturizing also ensures radiantly beautiful skin. Double cleansing not only transforms skincare into a luxury ritual—it’s also extremely intelligent, as it specifically targets different impurities on the skin. The first step targets oil-soluble dirt, while the second step targets water-soluble dirt.

The cleansing process starts with the antioxidant Ultimate The Cleansing Oil with precious rice husk oil, which gently removes makeup, environmental dirt and sunscreens from the skin. Geishas, who also relied on the power of rice, would wash their faces with rice water. Japanese rice bran, or komenuka, contains a variety of active ingredients such as inositol and gamma-oryzanol. These act as powerful antioxidants and nourishing moisturizers for the skin. In addition, the enzymes in rice bran gently exfoliate and polish the skin to reveal its natural glow.

The second step of the double cleansing process utilizes the fine foam of the Ultimate The Creamy Soap, which removes any remaining dirt from the skin. Applied with the original cleansing brush—which is bound with 200,000 of the finest nylon fibers—the rich creamy cleanser thoroughly strips the pores off dead skin cells and leaves the skin silky soft. The cherry blossom leaf extract, part of the Sakura Eternal Complex formula, also boosts cell repair, promotes the formation of hyaluronic acid, collagen and elastin, and regulates pigmentation.

Sensai’s Saho method follows cleansing with double moisturizing of the skin, using lotion (which we primarily know as facial toner). Fun fact: it only became popular in Europe in the 19th century. In Japan, however, the first lotion goes back to around 600 AD.

 

Let there be light

Double moisturizing with lotion is one of the most important cornerstones of the routine and is based on a visionary idea: dry skin is like parched soil—it has difficulty absorbing water. This phenomenon, also known as hydrophobia, causes water to run off. To avoid this, the skin should be moisturized in small amounts with breaks in between to allow it to better absorb moisture. Therefore, the skin is first moisturized with an aqueous lotion and then further moisturized and nourished with an emulsion, fluid or cream (as needed). By using these products, the skin’s moisture is locked in and a protective barrier is created. The skin’s replenished water deposits ensure that it remains radiant and plump. For Japanese women, a rosy glow is a sign of perfect complexion care. After the last step, usually their favorite cream, Japanese women always apply an effective sunscreen with an SPF of at least 50. After all, the skin shouldn’t develop hyperpigmentation and should be as bright, clear and radiant as ever.

In Japan, the desire for flawless, glowing skin is still a deeply rooted beauty ideal today. This preference for a fair complexion can be traced back to the Nara period (710-794) when Japanese culture was heavily influenced by China and Korea. At that time, Japanese women began to use a white powder called oshiroi, which was originally imported from China. It was believed that fair skin hid imperfections and symbolized purity and beauty. To this day, “J-beauty” products are booming, promising to lighten the skin, reduce hyperpigmentation and give the complexion a special glow.

close up of woman using Sensai serum for skin hydration

From Japan to the rest of the world

With its comprehensive philosophy, “J-beauty,” short for Japanese beauty, ensures that skin problems don’t even arise in the first place. The focus is on preventative skin care, which means that the skin is thoroughly cleansed (so impurities don’t stand a chance), sufficiently moisturized and protected from the sun (both to prevent aging, i.e. wrinkles as well as hyperpigmentation). Another plus point of J-beauty is the inner balance and calm that the soothing, slowly performed ritual is supposed to create.

Sensai, the beauty brand from the Land of the Rising Sun, is one of the leaders of J-beauty and has changed the entire market worldwide. However, this wasn’t always the case, as the brand was not initially known for skincare, but for a cotton trading company called Kanebo, founded in 1887. In 1908, they also entered into silk thread production (also for traditional kimonos) before a realization would change everything a few years later.

 

Silk extracts—a cocoon for the skin

In 1930, the then-director of Kanebo Ltd, Sanji Muto, noticed how soft and silky the silk weavers’ hands were during a tour of the silk production plant, which led them to commission scientists to research the skincare properties of silk. In the early 1930s, the research team at Kanebo was finally able to scientifically prove that silk contains skin-like building blocks that are essential for healthy skin. Silk proteins are particularly rich in amino acids and offer unique care for the skin. This finding was soon translated into the first product—and Savon de Soie (silk soap, launched in 1936) was born. Since then, silk extracts have been at the heart of all the prestigious Kanebo Cosmetics brand’s Sensai products. In 1979, Kanebo brought its Japanese beauty expertise to Europe with the prestige brand Sensai—and successfully rang in a new era for the beauty industry.

 

The luxury cream is born

At the World Expo (1989), Japan wanted to demonstrate what is possible when production and development costs are irrelevant. Sensai therefore developed the EX La Crème as a prototype. The aim was to show particularly plump and intensively saturated skin. The result was the first hyaluronic skincare product of its kind and generated so much enthusiasm that a small batch was completely sold out within 14 days. The EX La Crème became a prestige product and a pioneer of premium creams.

In 2005, the next luxury skincare product, Sensai Premier Cream, was presented, with hyaluronic acid and two groundbreaking innovations: a repair focus with algae extract. At the same time, they began to incorporate Koishimaru silk into the line—the exclusive silk that was previously only intended for the imperial house.

The special thing about Koishimaru silk is its exclusivity: for SENSAI products, Kanebo only uses high-quality Koishimaru silk, which is 100 times more expensive than ordinary silk (one kilogram costs around 2.500 euros). Originally, however, it was only reserved for the Japanese imperial family and their court (the monopoly was lifted in 1994). The highlight: the precious silk threads supply peptide B, which activates the skin’s hyaluronic acid production, optimizes its moisture-binding capacity and gives it immediate suppleness and freshness.

 

Kaizen—the pursuit of improvement
In Japanese culture, the desire to constantly improve your efforts for the sake of the customer is referred to as Kaizen. Based on this philosophy, 200 Sensai researchers analyzed over 100 active ingredients and presented the Ultimate line to the world in 2013. New in this line was the Sakura Eternal Complex, which increases energy in the cell and improves skin repair. Ten years later, in 2023, they relaunched the successful Ultimate line and expanded the knowledge from the previous line to include two visionary focus points: autophagy and the SPARC protein.

Autophagy is an endogenous process in which the cells are cleansed through fasting. This is now possible not only through food but also through skincare: the products in the latest Ultimate line intensively promote cell renewal. The autophagy process recycles unused cell waste and revitalizes the skin. By activating autophagy, supported by eucalyptus and blueberry leaf extract, new energy is released that makes the complexion radiant and promotes the SPARC proteins.

SPARC, on the other hand, which is produced by fibroblasts in the dermis, stimulates the production of collagen, hyaluronic acid and elastin. Saxifrage extract (Saxifraga Sarmentosa) boosts SPARC production by 150% and initiates a chain reaction that stimulates fibroblasts to increase collagen production. The result is rejuvenated, denser and plumper skin.

The Ultimate SENSAI
BEAUTY Routine

Step 01
The Cleansing Oil

The gold-colored, antioxidant-rich cleansing oil binds and rinses away all oil-soluble impurities, including makeup, environmental pollutants and sunscreen.

Step 02
The Creamy Soap

Spread the creamy texture, on its own or with a specially designed cleansing brush, over wet skin to develop an ultra-luxurious lather that deeply removes all remaining impurities.

Step 03
The Lotion

For an optimally nourished, radiant and silk-like complexion, follow with the first step of double moisturizing. The lotion (available in two textures, depending on your preference) is proven to replenish moisture deposits.

Step 04
The Emulsion

The delicately melting emulsion is comparable to a superfood for the skin. It provides the skin with precious anti-aging nutrients and immediately makes it appear firmer, smoother and more radiant.

Step 05
The Cream

Rejuvenate and transform the skin with this final highlight of the routine: the indulgent cream with the newly developed Koishimaru Silk Infinite formula and the Sakura Eternal Complex.

Step 06
The Mask

Apply this special care ritual three times a week before bed and massage using specially developed porcelain oil to ensure glowy, fine-pored skin and more clearly defined contours in the morning.

close up of woman with red lipstick and make up by Sensai

A workout for the face

In addition to skincare, Japanese women swear by facial massage and have a variety of techniques to choose from, whether they prefer to visit a special massage spa or do it on their own at home: the treatment, which acts like a facelift, is carried out several times a week, if not daily.

The so-called Ko Bi Do is considered one of the oldest Japanese facial massages (dating back to 1492) and combines traditional techniques with modern care products. This method stimulates even the smallest facial muscles, promoting smoother, firmer and more youthful-looking skin. The mixture of gentle kneading, tapping and acupressure stimulates blood circulation, promotes lymphatic drainage (purification) and acts as a detox booster.
Based on this special facial massage, Sensai presents Ultimate The Mask. The refillable luxury object in a heavy golden bottle is an overnight mask paired with a specially created black massage tool. While the mask supports the skin’s repair mechanism during sleep and has a strong calming effect with witch hazel, the evening massage—inspired by Ko Bi Do—ensures toned facial muscles, the release of water retention and a glowy face with defined contours in the morning.

For Japanese women, the secret to radiant skin is not just about skincare products, but a holistic approach that emphasizes balance, conscious eating and natural ingredients. The Japanese diet, rich in antioxidants and nutrients from fish, seafood, green tea and vegetables, contributes significantly to gut and therefore skin health. Hara hachi bu, a Confucian maxim that’s often practiced here, also calls for moderate eating, stipulating that you should only eat until you’re 80 percent full.

 

Younger cells by way of the right diet

One of Japan’s special highlights is the “Blue Zone” of Okinawa, an island region in the southwest of the country that is known for having the highest life expectancy. “Blue Zones” are areas around the world where people grow particularly old and stay healthy. In addition to Okinawa, these special areas include Ikaria (Greece), Loma Linda (USA), Sardinia (Italy) and the Nicoya Peninsula (Costa Rica). Despite geographical differences, the five zones share common lifestyles that contribute to their longevity.

Despite the prevailing poverty, the inhabitants of the Okinawa Islands are among these extraordinary people. They are less likely to suffer from cancer, heart disease or dementia, and the women there have the longest life expectancy in the world. Their diet consists mainly of sweet potatoes, tofu, bitter melon, seaweed and miso. Therefore, it can be assumed that it’s the anti-inflammatory substances, rich in antioxidants. that contribute to the health and longevity of Okinawans. Of particular note is the ability of red algae to retain hundreds of times its weight in water, which keeps the skin hydrated and supple. Tofu and other soy products, rich in phytoestrogens, also help maintain bone health, especially for menopausal women, and contribute to heart health. From a mental point of view, their secret is also a strong social network called moai that accompanies them throughout their lives. Ikigai, a deep meaning of life, on the other hand, is ”the feeling of having something worth getting up for in the morning”—and is also said to ensure a happier and longer life. Even if your skin no longer looks the same at 100 as it did at 40.

Words
Sermin Kaya
Photography
Karin Berndl / Maison Image
Assistant
Pascal Schrattenecker
Model
Valentina, Addicted to Models
Digital operator
Mala Kolumna
Make-up Artist
Katharina Amaxopoulos
Retouch
Retush Creative Retouching
Hair artist
Sabine Reiter
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