The Story of
the Boat Shoe

(From the Archives) Many great stories and inventions begin with a slip, a mistake, or sheer necessity. This one clearly falls into the first category—and not just figuratively.

Let’s make a quick tack and sail back to the year 1935. Aboard the yacht of passionate American amateur sailor Paul A. Sperry off the coast of Long Island, the following occurred: The smooth deck of his yacht not only caused Sperry to stumble regularly but sometimes to fall. This was not only quite painful but also deeply frustrating for a man full of drive and innovative spirit—until he had a flash of inspiration while looking at the paws of his cocker spaniel, Prince, who never seemed to have problems on deck. The fine grooves in the dog’s paw pads seemed to be the key to slip resistance.

Without hesitation, Sperry used his razor to cut grooves known as siping into the rubber soles of his shoes. This act would later become known as the “razor cut” and mark the birth of a new era in sailing shoes. Sperry then combined his new soles with a simple cotton upper and a 360-degree lacing system with eyelets to secure the shoe even more firmly to the foot—a detail that remains a brand hallmark to this day. The “Sperry Top-Sider” was born—a shoe that would not only make sailing history but also eagerly explore new waters: like the world of fashion.

Before the boat shoe became anchored in the fashion scene, in 1940 Sperry’s shoe became part of the official uniform of the U.S. Navy—functional, indestructible, and, incidentally, quite stylish. Exactly what sailors need.

Not Just For Mariners
The boat shoe quickly developed into a status symbol and badge of recognition among like-minded individuals—those young, well-off New Englanders with access to yacht clubs and elite universities, who considered boat shoes, chinos, polos, and striped shirts essential summer attire. Among the preferred brands for connoisseurs and true seafarers back then (as well as today) were Sebago, Timberland, Paraboot, and of course the original Sperry Top-Siders. This sporty-luxurious East Coast style, also known as preppy style, crossed the Atlantic in the 1980s and has returned in waves ever since—bringing the boat shoe with it.

The wave that rose last year was particularly large. American Vogue even declared 2024 the “Year of the Boat Shoe.” And designers followed the call. Whether at Celine, Prada, or Miu Miu, nearly everyone reinterpreted the classic—whether with platform soles, vegan leather, glossy patent, or even denim. Especially coveted: the models from Miu Miu, available only through special connections.

For those who prefer something even more exclusive yet understated, seek out the variations from Quoddy, handmade in Maine, or the luxurious interpretations from Loro Piana, where the finest calf leather meets technical innovation. French heritage houses like J.M. Weston or Italian manufacturers Velasca also offer alternatives for all those connoisseurs who value authenticity and style.

Even though the silhouette remains—although sometimes you have to look a little harder to find it—above all, the context has changed. Today, it’s less about slip resistance and more about making a fashion statement: a revival of preppy chic paired with modern minimalism and a sense of class. Instead of gangway, it’s now catwalk—street style instead of yacht club.

Back on Board
Despite all the fashion extravagance, let’s return once more to the deck—because this might be quite relevant for the upcoming summer holiday.

Anyone stepping onto a yacht knows: there are specific rules on bord that must be followed under all circumstances. Rule number one: street shoes stay outside. They not only bring dirt on board but could also damage the delicate teak decking. “Non-marking” is the magic word here. Anything that leaves scuffs and dents is taboo. Instead, shoes with abrasion-free and non-marking rubber soles are preferred, especially with siping profiles that provide a secure grip even when wet. High heels are considered the enemy of every deck.

And then there’s the barefoot rule. Which states that only shoes explicitly approved for boating may be worn on board—or none at all. Sounds tempting, but it’s controversial. On smaller yachts, it’s often tolerated; on larger ones, going barefoot is not welcomed for safety or hygiene reasons. So that leaves only boat or deck shoes. But what’s the difference?

Boat Shoe vs. Deck Shoe
The terms “boat shoe” and “deck shoe” are often used synonymously; this is not entirely correct, but understandable. Strictly speaking, the deck shoe is a functional subcategory of the boat shoe: reduced, robust, and made exclusively for use on board.

While the classic boat shoe has long ventured out into the world and indulges in stylistic freedoms—from different materials and shapes to bold colors—the deck shoe remains uncompromisingly true to its maritime roots: it must have non-slip, light-colored soles, be saltwater-resistant, preferably made from oiled cowhide or nubuck (which is water-resistant yet breathable), and feature the characteristic 360° lacing system to avoid tripping and falling overboard in rough seas.

Those who want to wear their shoes without socks—which is absolutely common—should look for especially soft inner leather that doesn’t chafe. Speaking of fit: boat shoes stretch slightly over time—so if they feel a bit tight at first, that’s not a drawback but a sign of quality. They also look better the more scratches, creases, and stains the leather shows—telling us stories of great freedom and the wind in the sails.

Whether committed to the classics or drawn to the modern, boat shoes continue to prove time and again that they can effortlessly navigate between tradition and contemporary spirit—without ever veering off course, whether on the water or beyond.