Becoming of an Icon

Fashion and Beauty
classic Gucci loafers in black
Gucci Loafers close up

It’s a sunny afternoon in 1953 in Florence. The air hums with the buzz of Vespas zipping along cobblestone streets, their riders elegantly navigating the city’s historic avenues. Noble café terraces brim with laughter as stylish women in petticoats sip espressi, their conversations punctuated by the clinking of porcelain cups. The aroma of expensive perfume wafts through the air, mingling with the scent of blooming flowers from nearby Via Pellicceria.

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(Fashion) In this vibrant tableau, a man returns from a business trip to New York. It’s Aldo Gucci, one of the heirs to the Gucci empire. He has just opened the first store in New York City at the Savoy-Plaza Hotel on East 58th Street. In his bag, Aldo carries a pair of soft, comfortable moccasins that caught his eye in a store. He has a vision: to transform these comfortable shoes into an elegant version marked by Italian chic.

This is how the story goes. And we absolutely love it.

The 1950s in Italy blossom into an era of glamour, innovation and timeless style as the dust of World War II is settling. Rome, Milan and Florence become the epicenters of fashion, setting trends that will influence the world for decades to come. At the heart of this sartorial boom is the House of Gucci. Founded in Florence in 1921 by Guccio Gucci, the brand has steadily built a reputation for its exquisite leather goods. But it’s in the 1950s that Gucci truly cements its place in fashion history with the invention of its iconic Horsebit loafers.

The evolution of the Gucci Horsebit loafer

shoemakers working on Gucci loafers and measuring leather
TRADITION
JUST LIKE IN 1953, THE HORSEBIT LOAFER IS STILL MANUFACTURED IN ITALY, WITH THE SOLES JOINED TO THE UPPER USING BLAKE STITCHING—A UNIQUE TECHNIQUE THAT ENHANCES THE SHOE’S QUALITY.

The introduction of the Horsebit loafer in the 1950s marks a pivotal moment in fashion history. This shoe quickly becomes synonymous with a fresh kind of elegance—combining sporty, casual and sensual elements. Adopted by important male celebrities, the loafer becomes an international sensation, captivating the fashion world at a time when design trends are still largely national. From CIA Director George H. W. Bush at the White House to Alain Delon in Nice, the loafer is everywhere!

By the 1960s, a women’s version emerges, initially featuring a tapered silhouette and a higher heel before transitioning to a more unisex style by the late 1970s. Icons like Jane Birkin, Jacqueline Kennedy and Audrey Hepburn wear the Gucci loafer, solidifying its status as a must-have accessory for fashion enthusiasts all over the globe.

Its understated elegance and subtle status symbol make it a preferred choice for executives and style icons alike. Through the 1980s and 1990s, the loafer becomes a staple of business attire, known as “deal sleds” among Wall Street traders. It’s as crucial for making a statement in the office as a badge. Even the ultimate “shark” of all, Leonardo DiCaprio’s character in “The Wolf of Wall Street,” can’t go without them.

In 1985, the Horsebit loafer’s significance is further recognized when it becomes part of the permanent collection at the Metropolitan Museum of Art as an example of Italian design excellence. Bravissimo! But the real enduring allure of this loafer lies in its exceptional craftsmanship. Made by skilled artisans, the shoe features a supple leather construction without an insole, ensuring it is lightweight, flexible, and comfortable. Today, these loafers continue to be meticulously crafted in Italy, using Blake stitching which provides added durability for everyday wear.

wooden cast for Gucci loafers
CRAFTSMANSHIP
THE ENDURING APPEAL OF THE HORSEBIT LOAFER LIES IN ITS EXCEPTIONAL CONSTRUCTION, USING THE FINEST MATERIALS AND TRADITIONAL TECHNIQUES TO CREATE A LIGHTWEIGHT, FLEXIBLE AND COMFORTABLE SHOE, MAKING IT A SYMBOL OF LUXURY AND TIMELESS ELEGANCE.
last touches in the production of Gucci loafers

Timeless Elegance

THE GUCCI HORSEBIT LOAFER

Over the years, Gucci’s creative directors continually reinvent the iconic Horsebit loafer. Tom Ford, leading from 1994 to 2004, experiments with exotic materials like crocodile leather, adding an extra touch of luxury to everything, while Alessandro Michele, who helms the brand from 2015 to 2022, infuses playful opulence into the classic silhouette, introducing the shearling-lined Horsebit.

Diving into Gucci’s archives reveals a treasure trove of designs featuring the iconic Horsebit motif. From backless striped loafers in vibrant green, red and gold to towering high platform pumps, the variations are endless. The classic black loafer has become synonymous with formal wear, while suede versions in rich mahogany and chestnut are perfect for everyday chic. The best part? This season, most of them are back in stock and ready to elevate our style game!

HANNI X GUCCI THE HORSEBIT MOTIF EXTENDS BEYOND LOAFERS TO VARIOUS ITEMS SUCH AS SCARVES, MULES, SLINGBACKS AND BAGS. THE ICONIC 1955 HORSEBIT BAG, CELEBRATING ITS 70TH ANNIVERSARY NEXT YEAR, IS AVAILABLE IN NUMEROUS COLORS AND SIZES. GLOBAL BRAND AMBASSADOR HANNI FROM THE K-POP GROUP NEWJEANS IS SHOWCASING HOW TRENDY CLASSIC ACCESSORIES CAN LOOK.
THE GUCCI HORSEBIT 1953 LOAFER
THE CLASSIC LOAFER
HORSEBIT 1953 LOAFER, GUCCI.
EUR 820

How to style

The campaign’s styling is understated and minimalistic, demonstrating how the loafers bring contemporary simplicity to a modern wardrobe. Simple white T-shirts, tailored trousers and beige trench coats complete the look. It’s all about the oft-mentioned mix and match, the contrast of styles as stylists say. Styling the Horsebit is all about balancing timeless elegance with contemporary trends. This Season, numerous contemporary singers and actors have embraced these loafers, stepping into the shoes of the icons who have sported these legendary pieces in the past. They bring a modern flair, highlighting the shoe’s lasting appeal and enduring coolness.

NEW FACES FOR THE 70-YEAR-ANNIVERSARY OF THE GUCCI HORSEBIT 1953 LOAFERS, IRISH ACTOR PAUL MESCAL WAS STYLED AND PHOTOGRAPHED TO CELEBRATE THE TIMELESS STYLE OF THESE ICONIC SHOES.
NEW FACES
FOR THE 70 YEARS ANNIVERSARY OF THE GUCCI HORSEBIT 1953 LOAFERS, IRISH ACTOR PAUL MESCAL WAS STYLED AND PHOTOGRAPHED TO CELEBRATE THE TIMELESS STYLE OF THESE ICONIC SHOES.
WORDS
Barbara Beltram
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