The Renaissance of
Afternoon Tea 

(Tea Time) Below, the Elephant Fountain burbles; above, on the gallery, strawberries are being tasted, dusted with gold. As every afternoon, Hotel Adlon—Berlin’s premier address by the Brandenburg Gate—is serving afternoon tea. There are sandwiches with labneh and aubergine, mini tartelettes with bulgur and avocado cream, mushroom pralines, and smoked salmon tartare with caviar, accompanied by a wide selection of loose-leaf teas. After a brief respite come scones with apricot jam and clotted cream, chocolate-caramel doughnuts, coconut cakes, and berry tartelettes. By now—at the latest—any plans for dinner are being cancelled. A second glass of Champagne? Cheers! It is an iconic scene that unfolds not only in the German capital, but in top hotels around the world.

Globally, the British rank only third in tea consumption after Turkey and Ireland, yet nowhere else is the ritual surrounding tea observed with such devotion. A proper afternoon tea is a true experience: edible works of art served on tiered stands—first savory, then sweet—where pâtissiers perform at their peak, accompanied by a perfectly curated selection of loose teas, perhaps Champagne or, in keeping with the times, non-alcoholic alternatives.

A Teapot on the Move
The woman most often credited with popularising this tea tradition is Anna, Duchess of Bedford, born in 1783, who was said to travel with her own tea kettle and to request tea and light refreshments in the afternoon to bridge the long hours until dinner. However, tea historian Jane Pettigrew doubts this narrative.

“Eating habits don’t change overnight. Diary entries show that as early as the second half of the 18th century, many Britons refreshed themselves with a cup of tea and a small bite—much earlier than the Duchess of Bedford.” Few know tea better than this impeccably styled woman with fiery red hair, pearl earrings, and a distinguished Oxford English accent. She has written books on the subject, owns a tea shop, and, as a member of the UK Tea Academy, offers training and consultancy. The tea trolley— the wheeled cart used for serving tea—was a household staple in her family.

What is certain is that tea culture reached England from China in the 17th century and, at the royal court—thanks in no small part to the influence of Catherine of Braganza, the Portuguese princess who married into the monarchy—developed into a refined social ritual of the English upper class. Those who could afford it drank what had once been considered a medicinal beverage around the clock: in the morning instead of beer, and for digestion after the main meal of the day, then a four- to five-hour luncheon.

Milk was only added from the 19th century onwards, and to this day opinions differ as to whether it should go into the cup before or after the tea. From around 1700, tea was available in coffee houses—though women were not admitted—and about 50 years later the first tea gardens opened, where orchestras played during tea dances. As taxes fell and the East India Company increased imports, even lower classes gained access in the 19th century, particularly in tea rooms, which offered a sober alternative to pubs. Previously, a pound of tea had cost as much as a laborer earned in an entire year.

Hats, Please
In the 1840s, tea drinking evolved into a social event in aristocratic circles, governed by strict rules—from arrival and departure times to dress codes (hats and gloves being essential accessories) and proper preparation, which hosts would never leave to staff due to its importance. To combat the afternoon slump and bridge the gap until the evening meal—which had by then become the main meal—light bites were served: cucumber, egg, and salmon sandwiches, shortbread, pralines, and English muffins—the afternoon or five o’clock tea was born.

Beware of confusion: “High Tea” was much heartier—featuring sausages, roasts, fish and chips, mashed potatoes, and shepherd’s pie—and was served later. Inspiration for both came in part from Isabella Beeton’s 1861 household manual Book of Household Management, where the London author emphasized the importance of proper brewing times and visually appealing, non-filling foods that were easy to chew—also because poor dental health was widespread.

With the rise of London luxury hotels such as The Dorchester, Claridge’s, and the Savoy, afternoon tea in the early 20th century became an even more elaborate display of social elegance, redefined and staged anew. Tea dances also became increasingly popular. However, the First World War brought this lifestyle to an abrupt halt, and in the 1950s, coffee culture imported from the United States began to compete with tea rooms. It was not until the 1980s that tea experienced a revival, particularly in quality.“Alongside tea bags, which I don’t care for at all, loose-leaf tea became more widespread, and varieties such as Oolong and Pu-erh found their way to Great Britain,” explains Pettigrew. Since 1999, tea has even been grown domestically—Scotland alone now has around 50 producers.

Unsurprisingly, London remains an excellent destination for afternoon tea, offering options in every price range, as well as themed experiences such as Wimbledon, Mary Poppins, Vincent van Gogh, or the Bridgerton tea served at The Lanesborough. Jane Pettigrew prefers a classic approach and recommends the Mandarin Oriental and The Langham. How does she define perfection? “I value a large tea selection and knowledgeable service when it comes to food pairing, which unfortunately isn’t always the case—even in high-end establishments. Chocolate cake calls for something strong like a small-leaf Assam, Kenyan black tea, or a full-bodied English Breakfast. A Victoria sponge cake, on the other hand, pairs well with a Darjeeling Second Flush or a dark Chinese Oolong, such as Honey Orchid.”

Macarons by a Star Pastry Chef
Fans can indulge elsewhere in the world as well. Hotel Adlon in Berlin has already been mentioned. The expert also praises The Balmoral in Edinburgh, Le Bristol and the Georges V in Paris, and The Peninsula in Hong Kong. At the Mandarin Oriental there, scones are served with rose jam and taro choux; at La Mamounia in Marrakesh, star pastry chef Pierre Hermé is responsible for macarons and madeleines; and at Le Meurice in Paris, his colleague Cédric Grolet serves edible trompe-l’œil.

Why is this seemingly outdated ritual experiencing a revival now? Pettigrew knows the answer. “Because it is delightfully old-fashioned and perfect for teaching children—and adults—manners. It is about politeness and proper behavior, the art of light conversation, as traditionally political topics are off-limits.”

She particularly loves the scones served exclusively for this occasion—as long as they are small, fresh from the oven, and accompanied by plenty of clotted cream and lemon curd or honey. On one point, however, the Londoner is uncompromising: “Cake forks have no place at an afternoon tea. The food is finger food. The only legitimate utensil is the knife used to spread the scones.”