48 Hours in
Athens

(48 Hours) Athens is a master of reinvention. In three decades of calling this city home, I’ve seen the Greek capital catapult through the free-wheeling ’90s, followed by a decade-long economic crisis, and its unexpected rebirth as a spirited Mediterranean metropolis. Once a stopover to the Greek islands, this ancient city has evolved over the past decade into a force of artistic and cultural expression—an epicurean revelation and a town with an intoxicating vitality.

Most venture to Athens to pore over its striking ancient sites and historical monuments spanning the fifth century BCE, Roman, Byzantine, and Ottoman eras. Walking amid these wonders never ceases to amaze, even us locals.

What’s even more surprising is how history and tradition meld almost seamlessly into this vibrant, modern city. Gleaming underground Metro stations are studded with archaic treasures found during excavation works. Neoclassical listed buildings have found new life in boutique hotels. Chefs are reinventing traditional Greek dishes, securing Michelin stars for restaurants that can compete with the best in Europe. Talented slow fashion designers are finding inspiration in traditional motifs and resuscitating industries back from the brink of extinction. Intriguing contemporary art spaces encourage free thinking and discussion.

Each time I go for a walk through the city, I always stumble on something new. From whimsical cocktail bars and concept stores in energetic downtown locales like Psirri to cutting-edge cultural centers, nothing stays the same in Athens. It feels impossible to try to keep up.

To tap this curious city’s beating heart, I suggest visiting during the quieter months of the year, particularly in late autumn and winter, when Athenians are in town. And next time you find yourself in the birthplace of democracy, drama, and philosophy, don’t be surprised if you find yourself in a long conversation with a new Greek friend at a neighboring restaurant table or open-air cinema. Athens is always in dialogue with itself, revising, adapting—and moving one step ahead.

Hotel Grande Bretagne
Situated on central Syntagma Square, the capital’s neoclassical grande dame holds the gold key to the city. Founded in 1874, the 320-room, antique-studded Grande Bretagne possesses a compelling history—including a stint as a World War II British army headquarters. Host to guests such as Sophia Loren and Maria Callas, the 400 sqm Royal Suite looks out at the Acropolis, Syntagma, and the Parliament. Take in an illuminated Parthenon from the rooftop restaurant and savor a mastic-laced cocktail in the hidden garden at Alexander’s Lounge. Before checking out, unwind at the GB Spa and pick up the hotel’s fruity signature scent from the onsite boutique.

The Dolli
When Mari Daskalantonaki, CEO of Greece’s largest hotel group, spotted a fading listed building at the entrance to Athens’ old town, Plaka, she envisioned a sophisticated yet intimate Hôtel-Maison. Built in 1925 for a shipping magnate, this magnificent structure—with its eclectic architectural style—began life as a private mansion. Following a deep restoration, The Dolli opened in summer 2022, and quickly earned two Michelin Keys and Prix Versailles recognition. The 46-room hotel’s playful interiors feature contemporary art, including works by Pablo Picasso and Jean Cocteau. Cool off in the rooftop infinity pool while peering out at the Acropolis, the ancient and Roman agoras, and Plaka’s neoclassical homes.

Monsieur Didot
John Lennon and Yoko Ono stayed in an early 20th-century neoclassical house on leafy Didot Street during a subdued 1969 visit to Athens. Bordering two very different neighborhoods—refined Kolonaki and countercultural Exarchia—this former gathering space for intellectuals and artists has been since transformed into an discreet boutique hotel. With just six rooms, Monsieur Didot retains a homely atmosphere. Featuring oak floors, hand-carved marble, and contemporary comforts, this pastel-hued haven feels like a world far from the lively historic center. Theaters, cafes, bars, restaurants, bookstores, and boutiques are in easy reach. Sleep in one morning and savor a Greek homemade breakfast in bed along with one of the many books lining the shelves.

Monument
Tucked down a narrow street in the buzzing Psirri district, this boutique hotel is a vision of neoclassical elegance. Designed by Ernst Ziller, whose architectural style can be seen throughout Greece, this late 19th-century marvel has undergone a delicate restoration. Each of Monument’s nine rooms is unique. Look for the carefully-preserved original elements—retained from this former home of an affluent merchant—such as wrought-iron balconies. Scandi-style design furniture provides a thoughtful update to the interiors. Book a bespoke art and culture tour and don’t miss the petite onsite spa.

Soil
Chef Tasos Mantis, an alum of London’s Fat Duck, is discreetly setting gastronomic trends at his Michelin-starred fine dining restaurant, Soil. Seasonality is central to Mantis’s culinary ethos, and his farm-to-table philosophy is a family affair. His father cultivates organic produce, edible flowers, and herbs at a plot west of the capital. Fish, crab, and prawns are sourced solely from Greek seas. Clean, delicate flavors characterize the menu, with dishes ranging from eel with black garlic to goat with a white bean puree. Housed in a restored neoclassical mansion in Pangrati, behind Athens’ Panathenaic Stadium, Soil features a courtyard perfect for al fresco dining on warm summer nights.

Makris Athens
Starting its culinary journey on the island of Corfu, Makris Athens is now a fine dining restaurant located in Thissio, in the shadow of the Acropolis and across from the Ancient Agora. In a rare culinary coup, chef Petros Dimas and his team earned Makris Athens a Michelin star a mere 15 months after its opening. Sustainably grown fruit and vegetables come from a privately owned farm in ancient Corinth, while fish and meat are also sourced locally. Rooted in Mediterranean tradition, signature dishes include a mushroom cappuccino starter, and ravioli filled with local lobster and truffle. Choose from three tasting menus—one vegan—or opt for a la carte.

CTC Urban Gastronomy
This cozy, softly lit Michelin-starred restaurant, housed in a brick-red neoclassical residence on a quiet street in the Kerameikos neighborhood, has forged a distinctive epicurean path over the past 11 years. Chef Alexandros Tsiotinis boldly reinvents traditional Greek recipes with French flair. An 11-course blind tasting menu gradually reveals Tsiotinis’s culinary mastery—from a modern take on classic beef stifado to a whimsical miniature rendition of souvlaki, perfectly accompanied by a pét-nat rosé with a tomato aroma. A perennial menu favorite sees kohlrabi, oysters, and caviar combined with retsina wine. Summer nights are made for dining in CTC’s cool, tree-filled garden.

The Clumsies

A brass doorbell with discreet lettering on Praxitelous Street is the only evidence of this bar’s existence. Mixologist-owners Vassilis Kyritsis and Nikos Bakoulis have created a warm, welcoming industrial-chic space that stays open all day. Much-loved among Athenians, The Clumsies is relatively quiet in the afternoon before livening up in the evening with a youthful crowd. For a private experience, book The Room, a comfy space hosted by a bartender who prepares premium and vintage spirits and customized cocktails. Cue up a record on the turntable while playing a round of pool.

Baba Au Rum

On tiny Klitiou St, Baba Au Rum attracts a hip young crowd. Bright red vinyl and metal stools with terrazzo floors underfoot lend a 1950s vibe. Baba Au Rum may look deceptively simple, but its cocktails have drawn international accolades. Specializing in Tiki cocktails made with fine rums from around the world, Baba Au Rum has been listed among The World’s 50 Best Bars annually since 2019. Try Devil’s Milk, a spicy concoction of Jamaican rum, coconut, chili pepper, falernum, chocolate bitters, and nutmeg. A friendly crowd mingles on the pedestrianized street outside.

Minu
Settle in at this chic, plant-filled cafe-restaurant cum concept store in the Psirri district and take a leaf from the book of its local patrons. For Athenians, life is meant to be lived slowly and purposefully. Details matter, and this is reflected in the name: Minu is short for minutiae. Start the day with a hearty brunch or opt for an afternoon coffee and a slice of delectable cake. Handmade ceramics, garden implements, and limited-edition collages are available for purchase.

Monastiraki Flea Market
No visit to Athens would be complete without a roam through Monastiraki’s narrow alleyways. Sunday is the best day to visit the district’s famed flea markets, as stallholders lay out all manner of vintage items, from grandma’s flowery, gilded crockery to uncommon musical instruments. Even if you’re not planning to buy, it’s worth perusing the countless curiosities on offer. Antique collectors shouldn’t miss the treasure-filled stores on Avissinias Square.

The Naxos Apothecary
Modern-day alchemists can be seen carefully weighing and mixing ingredients at this soothing sanctuary devoted to organic health and beauty near Syntagma Square. Giorgos Korres, founder of the Greek natural skincare brand Korres, and his brother Andonis, created The Naxos Apothecary to showcase their native island. Pore over a wide range of luxury natural fragrances and personal care products infused with the extracts of endemic herbs, flowers, and plants from biodiverse Naxos. Try the Sanudo eau de parfum, a woody, spicy blend of incense, chamomile, and cumin, then head upstairs to the bar for a relaxing tea.

Ancient Greek Sandals
Slipping on a pair of soft leather sandals from this much-loved global Greek brand, it’s tempting for a minute to imagine you’re Hermes himself. Browse an extensive collection of summer sandals, evening slippers, and winter loafers at the Ancient Greek Sandals store on the first floor of the building housing The Naxos Apothecary. The brainchild of former Balenciaga footwear designer Christina Martini, these artisan-crafted creations are sure to put a spring in your step. Look for the exclusive series produced in collaboration with Athenian jewelry house Lalaounis.

Zeus+Dione
Since playing a pivotal role in the revival of silk production in the northeastern Greek town of Soufli, Zeus+Dione has evolved into an enigmatic name on the global fashion stage. At a pint-sized boutique on flagstoned, pedestrianized Voukourestiou Street, find the brand’s latest signature collection. Inspired by ancient myth, classical Greek architecture and tradition, each carefully handcrafted piece features rich details such as tassels and traditional motifs. Designs are inventive yet enduring.

AOS
Spartan design, function, and comfort characterize AOS, which stands for Absence of Sonance. Since launching in 2022, this Greek fashion brand has been quietly making a name for itself yet is little known beyond the country’s borders. At its flagship store in the Kolonaki neighborhood, shoppers can build a capsule wardrobe with timeless essentials and subdued statement pieces that move effortlessly from morning till night. Shoes, bags, and accessories complement each look.

EMST Athens
Athens’ National Museum of Contemporary Art, known as EMST for short, features a diverse range of permanent works and regularly hosts exhibitions that prompt contemplation. Inhabiting a former brewery in Koukaki, the stark conceptual art space showcases Greek artists—such as the haunting paintings of Dimosthenis Kokkinidis—and international artists, including activist Emily Jacir.

Onassis Stegi
For more than 15 years, Onassis Stegi has provided a progressive cultural space nurturing contemporary creation. Here, arts, sciences, and aesthetics fuse seamlessly, inviting the visitor to interact and not merely observe. Theatrical productions, contemporary dance, music performances, exhibitions, and DJ sets are regularly held at the Syngrou Avenue venue. Names like Scottish actress Tilda Swinton and Greek director Yorgos Lanthimos appear on the roster.

Benaki Museum
Housed in a neoclassical building near the Greek Parliament, the Benaki Museum of Greek Culture hosts a mesmerizing exhibition on all things Grecian, spanning prehistory to the 20th century. Prehistoric, ancient Greek, and Roman antiquities on display include gold jewelry from a royal tomb. Indicating the breadth of its collections, the museum features Byzantine, Islamic, and neo-Hellenic art. The Benaki also delves into the history of modern Greece—from the years before the Greek Revolution to World War Two.

Cine Aigli Zappeiou
No Athenian summer is complete without a night under the stars watching a film at Cine Aigli Zappeiou. One of the city’s few remaining treasured open-air cinemas, it has entertained locals for more than a century. When temperatures rise, escape to the cinema within the cool environs of Zappeion Garden. Book the upstairs balcony for a more private experience, with butler service and a bespoke menu.

Astir Beach
Reserve a daybed at this sandy, full-service Blue Flag beach in the resort suburb of Vouliagmeni, on the Athens Riviera. Astir Beach offers a range of water sports, including water skiing, wakeboarding, and standup paddleboarding, along with a volleyball pitch. Browse Greek designer swimwear brands at onsite store Salt Water. Across the road, the futuristic-looking Astir Marina features dining options, such as Bagatelle Athens, and boutiques.