Out of
Mannheim

Maison Ë Ms. Schumacher, you founded your company in 1989. Is it true that there was never a business plan?

Dorothee Schumacher I was 23 and had a vision of what I wanted for women. In instances like that, you don’t make a business plan—you just get started.

M. Ë What did that vision look like?

D. S. It’s actually still the same today. I wanted to create fashion for women who are so strong that they dare to embrace their femininity. You can be self-determined, run a business, or manage a family without having to choose between strength and femininity. For me, the magic lies precisely in this interplay.

M. Ë On top of that, you were heavily pregnant in the founding days. How did your friends and acquaintances react back then?

D. S. Oh, when you’re pregnant, you suddenly have all the strength in the world. But I wouldn’t have let anything stop me anyway. I wanted a family, and I wanted a business. To anyone who says you have to choose one or the other, I say, “I don’t think so. I take it all!”

M. Ë In the end, it worked out quite well: Dorothee Schumacher is now represented in 46 countries, and the company has experienced strong growth again, especially in recent years. Is there such a thing as a recipe for success?

D. S. A recipe for success? Of course, there’s a signature style that runs through every collection, that balance between strength and femininity, between “classy” and playful details. Basically, it’s about inspiring women and giving them the freedom to play with fashion. That’s exactly what we love: expressing our personality through a look that’s entirely our own. It’s almost like magic. We’re always working toward that moment.

M. Ë One of your popular slogans is “Catch her if you can.” What’s that all about?

D. S. It’s not just a marketing slogan. It sums up that feeling quite well. It’s when you feel comfortable in your personal look, are aware of it, and radiate exactly that. It’s a spirit that can’t be copied or captured. That’s exactly what “Catch her if you can” is all about.

M. Ë Mannheim isn’t exactly the center of the world and certainly not the center of the fashion world. Has that ever been a disadvantage?

D. S. I can be in Paris in three hours, at Frankfurt Airport in half an hour, and online in a second. Still, I’m always drawn back here. Our location by the river is something special; the surroundings are familiar, and the appreciation for art and craftsmanship is deeply rooted. Above all, though, I find the peace and quiet I need here. Many people believe that fashion requires hustle and bustle, stimulation, and a certain amount of chaos. I believe that great collections emerge precisely when you have the space to really listen. I find that peace and quiet here.

M. Ë Yet people always say that Germany is struggling as a fashion hub.

D. S. I never thought of it that way. We’ve sold our collection internationally from the very beginning. I speak Italian, so we opened a small showroom in Milan. International buyers loved our pieces because they struck that balance between modernity and femininity—something they hadn’t seen before in German fashion. And they knew that this works.

M. Ë “Works” in what sense?

D. S. When a collection comes from Germany, people associate it with quality, good cuts, and fine fabrics. But also reliability. You know that the work is done properly, promises are kept, and deliveries are on time. There’s a bit of German engineering behind it, and that, too, is an important part of our success.

M. Ë Is there a trend back toward boutiques?

D. S. People love to meet in special places. On Sylt, we have a store in a thatched-roof house with its own garden and a view of the sea. For the store, we deliberately chose a Colombian architect whose focus is actually on hospitality, not on traditional retail. For us, it was never just about designing a beautiful store, but about creating a place where people feel at home from the very first moment. And I believe that’s exactly what we’ve achieved. We’ve also just expanded our Berlin store—our very first one—which now includes “Dorothee’s Coffee.” Our spaces are meant to convey the same spirit as our collections. That’s why no two stores are alike.

M. Ë They say your brand has a strong “community,” so customers who keep coming back year after year and have a close connection to the brand. How do you achieve that?

D. S. You can’t just say, “I’m going to build a community now.” A community just happens—you can’t plan it. It’s like throwing a good party: You can set the stage and bring people together. But you can’t control whether that turns into a real community. It’s the same with a brand. Our customers need to feel seen and comfortable. Then they’ll come back, tell their friends about it, and the community grows all on its own.

M. Ë But they do actually say that you know how to throw a good party.

D. S. Oh yes, I do.

M. Ë It’s also said that you still try on every single piece from the collection.

D. S. Every single one. We’re sitting here in our design showroom, which is currently stocked with a finished collection. But whenever we start a new collection—we develop four a year—everything starts from scratch again.
It never starts with a garment, but always with a feeling. That’s what I discuss first with my design team: What colors do I see? What cuts, proportions, and silhouettes? What materials feel right?

Then, we go to our archive. The collections from the past 20-plus years are stored in the tower next door. We take another look at individual pieces—not to replicate them, but to understand why something worked. Sometimes it’s a proportion, sometimes a detail, or sometimes a silhouette that we reinterpret entirely. This leads to new fabrics, new cuts, and finally the first prototypes here in the studio. And then the most important part begins for me: I try on every single piece over and over again.

M. Ë So you still manufacture them in Germany?

D. S. Yes. Everything in a collection is created here in our studio—from the initial inspiration regarding colors, fabrics, cuts, and proportions right up to the prototypes we develop here. For production, we then collaborate with highly specialized manufacturers who have mastered their craft to perfection. And because it’s so important to me to know how every single piece feels, I try on every item myself at the end.

M. Ë And if you don’t “feel” a piece, does it make it into the collection?

D. S. No, it just isn’t ready yet. Maybe the cut needs to be a bit more generous, or the proportions aren’t quite right. Sometimes I take prototypes home and wear them over the weekend. I want to feel what a garment does for me. Only then do I know if it really works.

M. Ë Can you give an example of when something doesn’t “feel right”?

D. S. For example, when the pockets aren’t in the right place or the proportion isn’t quite right yet. You only notice things like that when you actually wear a garment.

M. Ë Which markets are currently the strongest for the brand?

D. S. First and foremost, of course, our home market. “There’s no market like the home market,” and that actually applies to every brand. We’re strong wherever we can be truly close to our customers, whether through our own stores or strong retail partners. The U.S. has become one of our most important markets in recent years. American customers are very self-determined, embrace their femininity as a matter of course, and understand what fashion can do for them. A special piece of clothing can get you through a challenging day or remind you of who you are. I firmly believe that.

M. Ë Can American women actually pronounce your brand name?

D. S. Of course, they pronounce “Dorothee Schumacher” a little differently. But that doesn’t matter at all. I actually find it rather charming when they come up with their very own version. Recently, I heard about a customer who was stopped by customs at the airport and was about to be taken to another room. She protested, “But not without my Dorothys!” That really touched me.

M. Ë Who do you consider to be your best brand ambassadors?

D. S. I guess I’m supposed to name the influencers or actresses who best represent our brand. But for me, the best advocates are our customers. It’s amazing how often women are complimented on their outfits by other women. When a woman truly feels comfortable in an outfit, she radiates that confidence. And when she says, “It’s by Dorothee Schumacher,” that’s the most wonderful form of recommendation to me.

M. Ë In addition to running your company, you’ve raised four children. How do you manage to balance family life and business?

D. S. Probably by not thinking about it too much. There was never a clear line between family and the company. The two have always flowed into one another. Today, we have about 140 people working for us. Over the years, this has evolved into a team where many have been working together for a very long time. Of course, we’re coworkers, but there’s a lot of friendship involved. This openness is just part of who we are.

M. Ë Your son Max took on the role of co-CEO in 2017. Was it always clear that he would join the company one day?

D. S. For me, that was never a given. I think the greatest gift is that everyone is allowed to find their own path. With Max, it was different. He always wanted to be part of the company and was interested in all areas of the business. Today, he carries on our DNA in his own way. Experiencing that is something very special for me as a mother and founder.

M. Ë Do you always see eye to eye?

D. S. No, for heaven’s sake. That wouldn’t be good in any family or company. Everyone has their own point of view. Of course, we sometimes have heated discussions—alpha meets alpha. But before you know it, we’re laughing about it and moving on.

M. Ë Is there a business plan for the next 10 years?

D. S. Yes, there actually is one. But you’ll have to ask Max, our CEO, about that.